One of Europe’s most popular city breaks, Rome is an ideal destination for curious travelers, especially those with a taste for history, art, and delicious food and wine.
With more than 2,000 years of history, the Italian capital is sometimes compared to a lasagna. Over the course of its history, one layer was built on top of another. Wandering the city center, it’s not unusual to see ancient ruins peeking from behind a baroque church or even a modern shop. Romans work to preserve their history, but they don’t preserve it in amber; they live with it. Therein lies the magic of the city—it really is eternal.
Rome wasn’t built in a day, and you can’t see it in a day or two either, but if that’s all you have, this is how you should spend it. Change may come slowly to Rome, but the city is evolving, so return travelers will always find something new to do.
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Day 1
Ancient ruins and artsy Monti
It’s going to be a packed day, so fuel up the way the Romans do, with a cappuccino and cornetto standing up at the bar. Better yet, try a maritozzo, a cream-filled bun that’s quintessentially Roman. Pasticceria Regoli, a family-run spot established in 1916, is famous for them. Be sure to get there early because they always sell out.
From there, it’s a 15-minute walk to one of the most iconic Roman sites: the Colosseum. Plan to spend 1–1.5 hours exploring the various levels and viewing the archaeological finds displayed on the upper level.
The same ticket you use for the Colosseum also gets you entry to the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill within 24 hours. When you finish at the Colosseum, go directly to the Forum’s entrance on Via dei Fori Imperiali. This was once the beating heart of the Roman Empire, with extravagant temples, palaces, and shops.
Finish up on the Palatine Hill, which became like the Beverly Hills of the Roman Empire. The most important emperors, including Caesar Augustus and his wife Livia, built their gilded homes there. It takes some imagination to envision how glorious it once was.
For lunch, head to nearby Taverna dei Fori Imperiali, a family-run restaurant that serves Roman classics and some twists on them, like spaghetti with orange and pistachio or cacio e pepe with black truffle.
In the afternoon, spend some time wandering the charming cobblestone streets of Monti. Named for the hills it’s built on, the neighborhood is full of independent boutiques, casual bars, restaurants, and gelaterias.
Stop by Sacripante or Kokoro for cute clothes made locally, Art Privé Gioielli for beautiful jewelry, or Grezzo Raw Chocolate for raw, vegan chocolate. If you get a hankering for gelato, make a beeline for Fatamorgana. Cross Via Cavour, and head up the stairs to see the Church of San Pietro in Vincoli, which houses Michelangelo’s statue of Moses.
You might just want to stick around Monti in the evening. On a quiet piazza in a less-trafficked part of the neighborhood, you’ll find Drink Kong, one of the most cutting-edge cocktail bars in the city. Owner Patrick Pistolesi, an Italian-Irish bartender, was inspired by Tokyo and '70s futurism.
For something more traditional, head over to Ai Tre Scalini, a popular wine bar set on a particularly photogenic street with enormous tendrils of ivy hanging down. You could stay there, nibbling on cheese and salumi, or head over to Rocco Ristorante, a casual-cool trattoria that serves homestyle dishes. It’s a popular spot, so book ahead of time.
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Day 2
Treasures of the Vatican and the Centro Storico
Another busy day lies ahead. The Vatican Museums open early (Monday–Saturday 8am–8pm, last Sunday of every month 9am–2pm), but if you want to beat the crowds, book an early-entrance tour led by a guide, where you can visit the museum earlier in the morning before it opens to the public.
One of the largest and most popular museums in the world, the Vatican Museums actually comprise 24 collections, plus various galleries and chapels, including the Sistine Chapel. Afterward, if you still have the time and energy, you can enter St. Peter’s Basilica to admire Michelangelo’s Pietà and Bernini’s bronze Baldacchino.
After you’ve had your fill of the art, it’s time to fill up on another Italian masterpiece: pizza. A few blocks from the Vatican Museums, you’ll find one of the best pizzerias in Rome. Bonci Pizzarium is a tiny counter that only does pizza al taglio (i.e. pizza by the slice). The brainchild of Gabriele Bonci, who was featured on an episode of Chef’sTable: Pizza, this spot is as good as everyone says. The crust strikes the perfect balance between chewy and crunchy, and there’s an exhaustive range of toppings. Our advice? Ask for small slices so you can try a few.
After lunch, return to the other side of the river to explore the Centro Storico, the historic center where the most beautiful piazzas, fountains, and monuments are concentrated. Cross the Ponte Sant’Angelo dotted with angels, a couple designed by baroque master Bernini, which also offers a wonderful view of St. Peter’s Basilica. You’ll find yourself just a few blocks from Piazza Navona, one of the city’s liveliest squares with an impressive baroque fountain by Bernini in the middle.
From there, it’s a five-minute walk to the Pantheon, the best-preserved ancient Roman temple. That’s because it was converted into a church. It has the largest freestanding dome built before the modern era and has been called architecturally perfect because of the perfectly equal proportion of its diameter to its height. Go inside to admire the oculus and see the tombs of important figures, including Raphael.
Continue east through the cobblestone lanes until you come to the famous Trevi Fountain. Legend says that if you throw one coin in the fountain, you’ll return to Rome. Throw two coins, and you’ll fall in love with an Italian. Throw three coins, and you’ll marry your Italian love.
Veer north, and you’ll arrive at the Spanish Steps, the monumental Baroque staircase that connects the Piazza di Spagna to the Church of Trinità dei Monti at the top. The area surrounding the Spanish Steps is home to the city’s most upscale designer boutiques. For a quick pick-me-up, stop by the Antico Caffè Greco, an opulent gilded cafe that dates back to the era of the Grand Tour, for an espresso.
If you continue walking north on Via del Babuino, you’ll soon arrive at the huge circular Piazza del Popolo with its twin churches, obelisk, and lion fountains. Feeling fancy? Duck into the elegant Hotel de Russie for a spritz at the Stravinskij Bar and dinner at Le Jardin de Russie just above it. The hotel is known for its tiered “secret garden” and is a favorite of celebrities and other beautiful people. Savor a plate of ravioli cacio e pepe, acclaimed chef Fulvio Pierangelini’s take on the classic Roman pasta, with a glass of wine.
Staying a bit longer? Read our full guide for how to spend a few more days in the Eternal City.
Plan your trip
When to visit, where to stay, and how to get around Rome: Find it all online.
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With local expert:
Laura Itzkowitz
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Laura Itzkowitz is an American journalist based in Rome. She first fell in love with the Eternal City in 2008, moved there for two years, and returned in 2019 after eight years in New York City. When she’s not traveling, you can find her sipping aperol spritzes at outdoor cafes and visiting the city’s obscure museums and palazzos.
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