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Going Places: Destinations |
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You might know South Korea as the birthplace of global pop culture phenomena, such as “Squid Game,” “KPop Demon Hunters,” Oscar winner “Parasite,” and K-pop groups BTS and BLACKPINK. Seoul, its largest metropolis, has long served as Korea's capital, from 1394 until the country's division in 1948. It's now the capital of South Korea and, when you include the surrounding metropolitan area, home to 26 million people, roughly half of the country's entire population.
Seoul's modern history has been shaped by Japanese colonization in the early 1900s, US military intervention during the Korean War in the 1950s, and the rapid industrialization of the past 70 years. It is hyper modern but extremely traditional at the same time, creating a seemingly contradictory architecture and cityscape—futuristic industrial design juxtaposed with beautifully preserved hanoks (traditional Korean houses).
Yes, it has the K-pop and pop culture you know. But also, so much more. Read more in Iris (Yi Youn) Kim’s Guide to Seoul. |
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Ancient palaces, mountain trails, and K-pop around every corner. Seoul rewards curiosity. |
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The Five Grand Palaces: The Joseon Dynasty palaces are among the most spectacular royal complexes in Asia. Gyeongbokgung: most visited. Changdeokgung: UNESCO World Heritage Site, built in 1395, often less crowded. Deoksugung: open at night, features illuminated architecture.
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Bukchon Hanok Village: 600-year-old preserved, living neighborhood of traditional wooden houses in the north of the city. Wander the lanes, stop in a tea house, and take the city-offered audio tour at your own pace.
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Gwangjang Market: Seoul's most famous traditional market, open for more than a century, serving delicious bites from vendors who’ve been at their stalls for decades.
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Namsan and N Seoul Tower: A mountain in the middle of the city, with walking paths, hiking trails, and a tower at the summit with sweeping views over the metropolis (accessible on foot or by gondola).
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Hongdae and Itaewon: The city's two great nightlife districts. Hongdae skews younger and louder, with live music, cheap bars, noraebang (private karaoke) rooms, and street performers. Itaewon is more international and eclectic, with craft breweries, cocktail bars, and late-night street food.
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Confucianism was introduced to Korea in the late 1300s, and a social hierarchy enforced by its principles is still alive today. Age, societal position, and ranking dictate behaviors, affecting norms like drinking, dining, and body language (slightly bowing) when meeting others. E.g., don’t lift your spoon until the eldest at the table has touched theirs and taken a bite.
Noonchi, a term described as tactfulness, means you should pay attention to the emotional states of those around you. E.g., speak in low tones in public places out of respect for locals.
The Korean language contains honorifics intended for anyone older or in a position of authority. E.g., greeting a friend or peer is a simple “an-nyung,” but that greeting adds honorifics to become “an-nyeong-ha-se-yo” for elders.
–Iris (Yi Youn) Kim, Going contributing writer
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Buckle up. The Seoul food recs are coming in hot. |
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Korean BBQ: A can’t-miss Seoul dining experience. Marinated beef bulgogi and pork belly cooked on a grill built into the table, eaten with banchan (complimentary, refillable small dishes). It's meal-meets-social-ritual and best experienced with a group.
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Market street food: Gwangjang Market for deep-fried mung bean pancakes, hand-cut noodles, and spicy tteokbokki (rice cakes). Dongdaemun for late-night street food and clothes shopping. Noryangjin fish market for the freshest seafood (you can pick live octopus or flounder to be prepared on the spot).
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KFC and chimaek: Korean fried chicken—crispy, available in dozens of styles, and best enjoyed with an ice-cold beer. The combo is called chimaek (chicken plus maekju, or beer). Get it delivered to Yeouido Hangang Park, and eat it on the riverbank like a local.
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Makgeolli and soju: Soju is the most well-known Korean spirit—clear, clean, and ubiquitous. Makgeolli, a milky, lightly sparkling rice wine with a long history among farmers and laborers, is making a cultural comeback.
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Café culture: Seoul has one of the highest coffee shops per capita in the world. Check out Seongsu-dong, a former shoe and leather-making neighborhood with factory spaces repurposed as buzzy cafés. And don’t miss Korean pastries—many Korean chefs train in Paris and return to Seoul combining French technique with Korean flavors. Café Onion and Nudake are the names to know.
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Jjimjilbang (Korean sauna): Not a restaurant, but an essential Seoul food experience regardless. After a soak, head to the cool-down area, where you enjoy long-boiled eggs and shikhae, a sweet Korean rice dessert drink. Most are open 24 hours.
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New long-haul routes from United and Delta make Seoul easier to reach from the US than ever before. With South Korea's cultural momentum at an all-time high, this is the year to dive in.
For the adventurous, the 4 Rivers Path cycling route, which runs 393 miles from Incheon near Seoul to Busan in the southeast, has become one of Asia's great slow-travel routes. A government-designed bike passport system with checkpoints, stamps, and a Grand Slam medal for completing all four river stretches makes it as rewarding to finish as it is to ride. You don't need to be a serious cyclist—just a willing one.
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