“Blended in each spoonful of Madras curry powder is a larger story of the violence of colonialism, as well as the ways cooks have transformed the homogenized blend into something innovative and exciting.”
“Curry” powder has long been one of the most controversial spice blends. This seasoning, often labeled “Madras Curry Powder”—Madras, now Chennai, was one of the major trading outposts for the East India Company—in the spice aisle, isn’t actually South Asian at all. It’s a product of—you guessed it!—British colonialism, whose original intent was the domination of the spice trade. As the arms of colonialism spread, the British sought to reduce the breadth of South Asia’s cuisine into one powder, and so “curry”—said to be derived from the words kari in Tamil and karil in Kannada and Malayalam—became the imperialist catch-all for a symphony of regional dishes whose only major common thread was their sauciness.
The paths traveled by “curry” powder are long and many, with versions making their way to Trinidad, Guyana, America and beyond. If you haven’t read Julia Fine’s Whetstone South Asia article “From Delhi to Durban: The Many Homes of Madras Curry Powder,” it’s an essential, deeper dive into this blend (there’s only so much space we have in one newsletter, after all). And, luckily, over the past few decades, there's been a growing number of chefs, food writers, and companies—oh, hi!—who are highlighting regional South Asian cooking, unweaving the ties of colonialism, and focusing on spices and blends that are specific to states, cities, and even farms (like The Diaspora Co Cookbook—comin’ at ya in Spring 2026!).
Even with its complicated history, “curry” powder is still one of the most highly requested blends in our inbox. So, understanding its roots, we set out to take back “curry” powder and create a DIY version that’s a 1:1 replacement for the dusty store-bought stuff. At its core, this masala is a balance of sweet, fragrant, and warming flavors, with very little heat (though you can dial up the fire if you’d like!). Our take is built with 12 spices, starting with a bright, earthy base of coriander, cumin, and Pragati Turmeric—the latter giving the mix its signature sunny hue—layered with fenugreek seeds, fennel, black pepper, ginger, cloves, and cardamom for plenty of aromatic warmth. Cinnamon and Byadgi chillies bring just a touch of sweetness and gentle kick, while Pahadi Pink Garlic rounds everything out with a whisper of allium flavor.
Honestly, the blend we landed on is pretty damn craveable. I found myself reaching for it time and time again in the weeks after developing the recipe. For me, “curry” powder is a nostalgic taste—a result of growing up in the late 1980s and 90s when the seasoning was having its heyday alongside ranch and sun-dried tomatoes. No, it’s not the blend I use when I want to make an actual regional South Asian dish, but I love it in quick marinades, mixed into mayo, dusted over chicken or vegetables before roasting, and stirred into egg salad, just to name a few. Keep reading for my five favorite non-curry ways to cook with “curry” powder!
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P.S. We have just 30 Roshni Mortar & Pestles remaining for preorders! This beautiful, bright-as-sunshine M&P is made of the highest grade of bronze, and therefore extremely friendly with all kinds of spices and nuts (no tarnishes here)! Use it to smash together a quick guac or pine nut pesto, or to grind fresh, whole spices to make this curry powder!
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- Make an easy marinade: Mix ½ cup plain yogurt with 2 tablespoons “curry” powder, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and 1 teaspoon Surya Salt. It’s particularly good with chicken or shrimp, but loves other meats, fish, and veggies (toss with mushrooms before grilling = chef’s kiss!).
- Saucy, saucy mussels: Sauté 2 large chopped shallots in butter, add 1 tablespoon “curry powder,” then add some light lager or dry cider—a couple turns around the pan will do!—and let the alcohol cook off for a few minutes. Add 2 pounds mussels, cover, and steam until they open. Finish with a big ol’ dollop of crème fraîche and a squeeze of lemon juice!
- Upgrade frozen French fries: Spray the frozen fries of your choice with a little oil and toss with 1 to 2 teaspoons “curry” powder before air-frying or baking, according to the package instructions. (It’s also a great seasoning for roasted veggies, in general.)
- Zhuzh up mayo & sauces: Season store-bought mayo to taste, whip into a homemade aioli, or whisk into dressings.
- Go ol’ school with deviled eggs: Mix ½ to 1 teaspoon into the filling for deviled eggs. Top with pimento-filled green olives and a frilly toothpick!
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